Established as a game reserve in 1928 the park is one of the last natural habitats in all of Africa. Its inaccessibility is the primary reason for this wildlife haven since the park is nearly unreachable from the North and West.

The Luangwa river is the artery of the park supporting humongous pods of hippos in the dry season that can number up to over 100. On the plains of the park pukus, zebra, waterbuck, Thornicroft giraffe, and lions thrive.

South Luangwa National Park Guide

Our Experience in South Luangwa National Park

If there is one park in Africa we’ll never forget it’s South Luangwa National Park. It’s not because we spent nearly a week in the park, saw African wild dogs for the first time, or had an incredible walking safari experience.

It’s because six months prior to our arrival we made the biggest mistake in all of our 25,000 miles driving around Africa. While driving overland with our trusty LandCruiser Charlie we had planned to drive from the North into the park. To do this would involve traversing the Muchinga Escarpment which is questionable in the dry season; however, we were smack dab in the middle of the wet season.

It was the day before we were due to arrive in the park when we realized our error and determined it would take 21 more hours of driving to right the mistake. We had to cancel. At the time, we thought we had missed South Luangwa for good.

Six months later, we’re on a plane from Nairobi to Lusaka for a 40-day safari. Our first stop was none other than Chinzombo, the lodge we had failed to make it to six months earlier.

We couldn’t have asked for a better introduction to South Luangwa National Park. We spent six nights on the Luangwa river and each morning as the sun rose up over the meandering river was breathtaking.

It was early May and the weather was cool and dry. A fantastic time to visit the park. Although the game density is not as great as the peak of dry season, it did not stop us from having an amazing safari. We saw the birth of a zebra and a pack of wild dogs – both rare moments on safari. Watching an animal takes it’s first breath and steps is indescribable, a moment we will remember for life.

Safaris goers in Zambia have the ability to enjoy both night game drives and walking safaris. We made sure to take advantage of both activities. Activities like bush walks are a unique experience as you walk through the bush with heightened senses in search of animals.

We were in good hands with Norman Carr Safaris and Robin Pope Safaris the pioneers of the walking safari in Zambia and Africa for that matter. Bush walks can be an absolute thrill, on one of our walks we came close to two elephants who in mid-fight began moving towards us crashing through the brush. Our only safe haven was to hide behind a cluster of trees and hope for the best. Needless to say, we lived with a story to tell.

I’d always recommend packing safari boots in your bag to protect your feet in the bush.

Our time spent in the bush was enriching for the soul. The ritual and tranquility of sipping a Gin & Tonic while watching the sunset in the bush is unparalleled and we can’t think of many places better than South Luangwa.

Best Time To Visit South Luangwa

There is a stark difference between seasons in South Luangwa. In regards to safari, the greatest concentrations of wildlife occur at the hottest and driest months of the year. The dry season begins in April and continues to October. October is often referred to as “suicide month” due to the extremity of the heat before the rains arrive, but is high season and when you will see the highest concentrations of the game coming to the river to cool themselves off.

In a basic sense there are two seasons, but from there you could divide it into four. The cool dry season that ranges from April to July and the hot dry that ranges from August to October. Then two seasons of rain starting with frequent showers in November and December that reach a peak rainfall in January to March. We visited in May and even though the bush was still green and thick from a successful rainy season were still able to see plenty of animals.

South Luangwa National Park Fees

Fees are good for 06:00 hours to 18:00 hours – not 24 hours!

Park Fees are as follows:

• Zambian Citizens: 41.70 Kwacha/day
• Residents: $20/day
• Foreign Nationals: $25/day

South Luangwa Wildlife

A harsh contrast between wet and dry season leads to a dense population of animals as they move towards the Luangwa River, one of the few source of water in the park.The result is common leopard sightings in the riverine forest, hippo pods numbering a hundred, and close encounters with the large elephant population. Leopard is the most famous of occurrences and the park is world renowned for its population.

Game density in the park is known to be some of the best in Africa outside of the Great Migration in the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem. South Luangwa is home to an assortment of wildlife, vegetation, and birds. 60 different species of animals and over 400 species of birds can be found in the park. Big game is active in the park and there are four of “the Big Five.” The rhino was declared extinct in Zambia in 1998.

Other highlights include the puku antelope, the endemic Thornicroft giraffe, Burchell’s zebra, roan antelope, and massive buffalo herds.

The Landscape of South Luangwa National Park

It is the Luangwa Valley that brings an end to the Great Rift Valley. The culmination of this is the Muchinga Escarpment forming the northern and western boundaries of the park.

The valley floor is dominated by Savannah woodland. While the majority of the park sits in the basin of the Luangwa Valley below the massive escarpment. Most of the lodges, campsites, and tourism occurs in the east of the park along the Luangwa river and near Mfuwe (the only notable settlement in the area).

Most guests will find themselves in mopane woodlands that are spread throughout the valley floor. Within these woodlands are large pastures that support the grazing animals such as zebra and impala. Exploring these woodlands is a wildlife photographers treat as backgrounds shift rapidly and animals intermix herds of endemic Crawshay’s zebra, Thornicroft giraffe, and Cookson’s wildebeest intermix.

South Luangwa National Park’s Top Lodges

Chinzombo

Operated by an amazing safari company, Norman Carr Safaris, Chinzombo is easily the most luxurious safari lodge in Zambia. The lodge blends between modernity and bush with grace. As each villa has a private pool, air conditioned bed canopy, WiFi, bathtub, shower, lounge, and outdoor patio.

The star of the show is not forgotten. As the villa blends right into the environment with a wrap around mesh tent flap that provides the best alarm clock we’ve ever had – sunrise. Staying in one their six villas feels like a dream.

We were never uncomfortable in our villa with eco-friendly toiletries, coffee table books to pass the time, and staff happy to deliver us whatever we need. On one evening we were delighted to return to our room to find a candlelit dinner for two. That night we had a romantic three-course meal while hippos joined us munching on the riverbank grass.

The views over the Luangwa River, a wildlife hotspot, are fantastic and it was difficult to want to leave our villa. Animals frequent the camp with lions, elephants, and various antelope being regular visitors.

A highlight of the lodge has to be the main lounge and dining area. It sits on an elevated deck open on all sides to the bush. Interior decoration has the perfect blend of eclectic safari and modern amenities. The centerpiece is the fireplace that sticks out on a landing with large rounds couches perfect to enjoy a nightcap.

The history of the Norman Carr Safaris only added to the romance of being on safari. Norman Carr established South Luangwa’s first safari camp in 1950 and were paramount in creating photographic safaris in Zambia and Africa. They are also one of the first companies to develop the walking safari. Norman Carr is known for having some of the best safari guides in the business and that was apparent on our stay.

Brian, our guide at Chinzombo, was one of the best guides we have had in all of Africa and we were stoked to have his knowledge and share his passion for the bush on each of our game drives and walking safaris.

Luangwa River Camp

Luangwa River Camp lies within an ebony grove on the banks of the Luangwa River directly across from the game-rich area known as the Luangwa Wafwa. The Wafwa is an oxbow lagoon famous for the large concentrations of game that come for a drink in the dry season.  The camp is private with only five villas so time spent in camp is relaxing and intimate.

Suites are rustic and spacious featuring a massive sunken bathtub. All of your needs are provided in the room with a full laundry service and lounge. Rooms sitting at ground level and sleeping in the rooms at night feel allowed us to draw a connection to the bush. Each room is individually decorated with a few small touches and splashes of color to differentiate them from one another.

The central lodge building is a large concrete structure with massive pillars and a small concrete infinity pool to cool down on those hot days. The whole deck is elevated and provides views down to the wildlife show at the river during the dry season.

Dinners and lunches are served family-style and guests sit at a communal dining table. The wait staff were wonderful and always greeted us with a smile. Breakfast is the classic bush breakfast around a fire on the riverbank. For me standing barefoot on the banks of Luangwa River with a cup of coffee in hand was pure bliss.

Robin Pope is well known for their walking safaris and offers the activity as well as driving and boat cruises (when in season) as activities. We had wonderful game drives in the park with our guide.

What’s a Typical Day on Safari in the South Luangwa Like?

• 05h30 – Wake up call
• 06h00 – Light bush breakfast
• 06h30 – Depart on morning activity. We recommend doing walking safaris in the morning as after about 9:00 temperatures will get too hot to walk.
• 11h30 – Return from morning activity and get ready for lunch.
• 12:30 – Siesta time! Now is the perfect time to relax, read a book, or jump in the pool
• 15h30 – Afternoon tea and coffee
• 16h00 – Head out on afternoon activity. Usually accompanied with sundowner drinks
• 19h30 – Return from afternoon activity and relax with drinks before dinner.
• 20h00 – Dinner time!
• 22h00 – Sleep! It’s been a long day on safari

General Info for Traveling in Zambia

• The capital of Zambia is Lusaka and is one of the main entrance points into the country. We flew to Lusaka from Nairobi and stayed at the beautiful Latitude 15 hotel before we made our way for our safari.
• The main currency in Zambia is the Zambian Kwacha. Although USD is accepted at most safari lodges. Many places in Zambia do not accept credit cards.
• Check to see if you need a visa to enter Zambia. Americans can expect to pay $50 for a 30-day visa, or if traveling to Zambia and Zimbabwe they can get a Uni-visa for $50 good for both countries for 30 days. Visas can usually be purchased on arrival although you do have the option to get an e-visa beforehand. 
• We found most Zambians to be extremely friendly, with many in the tourism sector being able to speak excellent English.

Book A Safari in Zambia

Traditionally if you wanted to book a safari you’d have to go to a travel agent and have them book your safari for you. They made suggestions for camps and lodges then presented you with a large bill. Most of the industry still operates in this fashion.

However, Timbuktu is a new platform that allows you to select the lodges you’d like and see the pricing per day that way you can select the best itinerary for yourself. They will then contact the lodges and help you through booking your safari. With experts on staff, they can also provide suggestions and arrange the little details much like a travel agent.

What to Pack for Africa

Packing the right safari clothes is always a good idea, but it’s never essential because you can wear whatever you want. We also go in-depth on the best women’s safari clothes!

The friendly Zambian staff greeted us with a refreshing aperitif and told us not to worry about anything and led us to our home for the next few days. Each room at Tongabezi has its own appointed valet. This personal valet watches over you and your room and makes sure you have everything you need from fresh towels to hot coffee.

A Review of Tongabezi Lodge

The Rooms

We made our way to our room eager to relax and chill out after the long day. When we walked into our “room” that was twice the size of our old New York apartment complete bliss set in. The room felt like we stepped into heaven with couches and a massive comfortable bed overlooking the private deck on the Zambezi River. The bathroom was the best part to come, beautiful tile work and a cast iron tub already filled a bubble bath.

The Staff

I loved chatting with all the staff members at Tongabezi. From the guides to the bartenders, to the room attendants and to the chefs, every individual had their own unique story to tell.

It’s evident that Tongabezi has put a lot of care into training everyone here as service truly shines through. It’s not just the basic things like taking orders or making a bed, it was the other actions that made Tongabezi truly special.

Actions like getting surprised by a bubble bath, or remembering names and favorite drinks. All these traits became daily luxuries at Tongabezi. Many of the staff members also come from all over Zambia, meaning they are some of the friendliest people in Africa.

The Food

The food at Tongabezi is without a doubt the best we have had in Africa. Chef Zuwi Nawa is the head chef here and takes great pride in their cooking and it shines through the taste and presentation of the food.

There are also four chefs, two pastry chefs, and two full kitchen teams so there was no way possible for us to ever have a bad meal.For each breakfast, lunch, and dinner you are presented with a menu with countless options for each meal – and yes it was hard to choose each and every time.

The meals are not just your typical Zambian fare either (although they can be). Throughout the course of our stay, we had Moroccan, Italian, French, and even Thai inspired foods made with ingredients from Tongabezi’s own organic garden.

It left me wondering who was behind the line cooking all these amazing dishes only to find out it was some very talented Zambians who had clearly mastered the art of bringing international dishes to Zambia.

Not one dinner was the same at Tongabezi. On our first night at Tongabezi we had our most romantic dinner in four years of dating – the sampan dinner.

Let me tell you about the Sampan dinner.

The experience is unique to Tongabezi and it is truly magical. In its essence, it is an evening filled with divine food, wine, the Zambezi River, and sweet Zambian melodies.

A white linen tablecloth draped over an intimate table setting, topped with candles, surrounded by lanterns, a bottle of your favorite wine waiting for you on the river. You arrive by boat and after being served your drinks dinner begins.

All three of your courses are delivered by boat. The waitstaff paddles each dish to you and presents it with the exceptional service we came to expect at Tongabezi. After the delicious meal, the evening is finished with dessert and accompanied by the full wait staff serenading you on the river.

It was arguably one of the best experiences of our lives and a wonderful evening.

The sampan dinner is without a doubt a great choice for dinner, but even the next night atop “The Lookout” was great too! The Lookout is similar to a treehouse and is the perfect location to chill out next to the river.

This is where we shared breakfast, lunch, and dinner on more than a few occasions. It may not be a floating dinner on the river, but it is overlooking the river and that is the second best thing. Added bonus, no risk of falling in the river too.

Eco-Friendly

Perhaps one of the main reasons we were so excited to stay at Tongabezi was because of its various accolades. The lodge has been named one of the top 100 hotels in the world by Travel and Leisure and also considered one of the top five in all of Africa. Tongabezi is definitely the number one eco-lodge in Zambia and we wanted to check out how it runs ourselves.

They have a still and sparkling bottling system and filtration that saves 20,000 plastic water bottles a year, which makes my anti-plastic mind incredibly happy.

Wood supplies come from the Copper belt in Zambia and are taken from sustainable forests so even having a sundowner around a fire at Tongabezi is good for the planet.All the toiletry and cleaning products are 100% biodegradable and even the staff uniforms are repeatedly recycled.

They also have Sindabezi Island an eco-friendly haven, but more on that later.

The Activities

Besides eating and basking in African luxury, there are an endless amount of activities to do at Tongabezi. After we relaxed with a few sundowners our first night we discussed with the Tongabezi team what we were going to be doing the next few days.

The amount on offer is endless such as trips to the infamous Devils Pool, a microlight over Victoria Falls, canoeing, and fishing on the Zambezi. We had a tough time deciding what to do but eventually decided that we would like to go canoeing, enjoy a few coffees on the river for sunrise, and go fishing.

We hadn’t been canoeing in Africa yet so this was a particular highlight for Cameron and I. Albeit we were a bit nervous of the hippos, but we had an excellent guide to make sure we were safe. Canoeing on the Zambezi is unlike any other experience as we were able to get up close to birdlife without scaring them away with a high-powered motor.

Capt. Ronald took us out on a sunrise boat cruise which is offered every morning. After traveling Africa for a few months we know that the best time to see wildlife is early morning or late afternoon when the sun is less intense. On the boat cruise, we saw plenty of hippos, crocs, and a plethora of birds (we’ve recently become birders).

Cameron decided to take the afternoon and go fishing, while I decided I had enough fishing for tiger fish and ventured into something different.

The School

Right next to Tongabezi is Tujatane School. Tujatane means “Let us all hold hands together” in Tonga.  Tujatane was started by Vanessa, one of the owners of Tongabzi, in 1996. I decided to venture over here while Cam was having his fishing time and was instantly blown away by the sheer size of the school.

Tujatane started with only 15 children, and they now have over 200 kids attending school. Most of the kids come from nearby villages or are children of the Tongabezi staff members.

The school has nine classrooms, two offices, a library, a kitchen, an amphitheater, a computer room, a reading room, and a music room. Many of the kids were in music class when I visited so I went to hear them sing and dance, which was absolutely incredible. The kids are extremely talented and even take their musical skills to a competition level!

I couldn’t believe that such a school came to be from Tongabezi and the hard work of Vanessa. It was really great to see the children learning and knowing that they were given the chance for a brighter future.

The school is completely funded by donations and generous sponsors.

Sindabezi Island

It eventually came time to leave Tongabezi. Thankfully we were just headed to Sindabezi Island. Sindabezi Island is a self-sufficient eco-lodge in the middle of the Zambezi. Sindabezi operates through Tongabezi but is a separate lodge with five rooms and separate staff.

Sindabezi has been named one of the top ten eco-lodges in Africa by Fodor’s, and since we have been aiming to be more eco-friendly we were ecstatic to travel here.

Sindabezi is a bit more seclusive than Tongabezi. You are literally on an island right in between Zimbabwe and Zambia, with no one around but the hippos.

There are still a few staff members and a wonderful chef cooking up all that food I’ve already talked so much about. There are only five open thatched rooms on the island, but since it was low season, we were the only ones occupying Sindabezi Island. So essentially we were the King and Queen of Sindabezi Island for a night.

The island is entirely solar-powered, there is no plastic, and all the cooking is done with gas. Birdlife is abundant on the island and given the location crocs and hippos sometimes call the place home.

The only way to arrive on the island is by boat from Tongabezi, which offered us another great chance to see the wildlife from the water.

The same activities that are offered at Tongabezi are still on offer at Sindabezi. Since we had already been playing on the Zambezi before, we decided to take a break and enjoy our little island that we had all to ourselves.

When else can you declare yourself the king of an island (unless you’re Tom Hanks in Castaway). We spent the afternoon relishing in nature, bird-watching, and playing board games with the staff. We may have even had a little private time to fly our drone too.

We’ll definitely be dreaming about the day we return to Tongabezi for the rest of our lives. It’s not only a little slice of Zambian paradise but also just pure African bliss.

General Info for Tongabezi and Zambia

• If you coming from the Kazungula Border Post. Tongabezi is about a 30-minute drive away.
• Tongabezi is about a 45-minute drive to Livingstone. From there it is another 15 minutes to the Vic Falls border.
• After we left Tongabezi we made our way toward Zimbabwe via Vic Falls. Unlike the Zambia/Botswana border, we had a relatively pain-free experience entering Zimbabwe.
• One-day visas into Zimbabwe are available at Vic Falls.
• The Zambian side of Vic Falls is easily accessible from Tongabezi. It’s worth noting that the Zambian side of the falls is where you can experience the famous Devils Pool; however, the best views of the falls are from the Zimbabwean side.
• Tongabezi isn’t a budget destination, but considering all that goes into running the eco-lodge the cost comes for good reason. Prices start at $655 per person per night and include all meals, alcohol, and most activities. Check out their website to see their current specials!

Despite the park’s massive size, long history, and accessibility, it is seldom traveled compared to many other parks in Southern Africa. It does have its reasons for not drawing the tourists of South Luangwa or The Lower Zambezi, but the park is making strides in conservation and begs to be explored.

The park is only a few hours from Livingstone or Lusaka. However, it still contains vast tracts of untouched wilderness, with the spread-out safari lodges operating in the park. In recent years interest continues to grow, and in our opinion, Kafue National Park is very much an upcoming park sure to be a hit for safari-goers in the future.

Zambia’s Kafue National Park Safari Guide

Kafue National Park is a shining beacon of why we love Zambia for safari. Despite nearly being wiped out in the past, Wildlife is expanding thanks to an increased interest in the park and funding for wildlife protection. The Zambian Wildlife Authority is growing and on one of our game drives in the park, we saw a brand new round of recruits training to one day protect the park’s resources.

Kafue occupies a massive expanse of land with rising numbers of wildlife. Kafue National Park is home to various games, including rare ungulates such as the lechwe, roan, sable, and duikers. On one evening boat cruise along the Kafue, we saw a common sighting, a leopard.

A sighting in a more “popular” and well-known park would have been ruined by other boats and vehicles, but we had that leopard all to ourselves! With large intact woodlands, leopards thrive in the park, and in our first two days there we saw four separate leopards. One of our best sightings of leopards involved one dropping from a tree to devour his kill.

It’s also estimated that the largest population of African wild dogs worldwide exists in the Kafue. The animals are free to roam in a massive habitat, covering massive swaths of land in just a few hours. Kafue National Park is also the only park in Zambia with a population of cheetahs. The cheetahs are largely concentrated in the North of the park but can sometimes be found elsewhere.

Kafue has much to offer visitors with its vast landscapes and massive diversity of animals. We drifted across a wave of tall golden grass on our drives only to see a rare blue duiker dash across the road. It had all the romanticism we love about safaris in Africa, without the crowds. Cruising around in a silent electric Land Rover allowed the bush’s sounds to envelop us. The ever-present red-eyed dove, an alarm call from a puku, and the roar of a lion hung in the air.

The vast space and poaching of the past leaves wildlife that is dispersed throughout the park. So, it may not be the dream destination for someone on their first safari. That does not mean the Kafue is lacking in wildlife. We had some of our best sightings of leopards in two days, and saw lions, elephants, puku, and plenty of hippo and croc.

While all the buzz in the safari industry continues to swirl around Botswana, Zambia is very much running for the best place to go on safari. Our favorite part? The country comes in at a fraction of the cost as its neighbor.

Where to Stay in Kafue National Park?

No place better demonstrates what Zambia has to offer than Kafue. Ila Safari Lodge, our accommodation in Kafue, comes in at just $475 a night a person. To find similar accommodation in Botswana would set you back around $2000 a person a night. Furthermore, the lodge was wonderful and a favorite throughout all of Africa.

Ila Safari Lodge sits on the banks of the Kafue River with a large semi-circle main lodge. The thatched structure offers an infinity pool, elevated dining area, coffee station, full bar, and sun deck with a fire pit. After sundowners on the river, we enjoyed sitting around the fire and listening to the sounds of the Kafue while drinking our Irish whiskeys from their nightcap bar.

Our meals at the lodge were great, and they did a wonderful job at crafting two unique experiences. The first is a lunch floating down the river and the other is a bush breakfast cooked over a fire. These are signature dining experiences for anyone visiting the lodge!

The tents at the lodge are stilted over the water and bring a modern element to safari while not harming the environment. Each tent is replete with wood floors, curtains, brass fixtures, and small design details that are all tasteful.  A real highlight for us was the free-standing bathtub on our deck. If you want to enjoy the tub and be sure to book in advance as there is only one room with the feature.

Being environmentally conscious is at the forefront of what the company and lodge are aiming to accomplish, and they pride themselves on being 100% eco in Africa. They are the testing ground for a brand new solar-powered pontoon boat and electric Land Rover and are one of the first in Zambia with one. They also supply all rooms with filtered drinking water to reduce the amount of plastic waste.

For a new company, Green Safaris came close to hitting every target. We had an amazing safari with our guide, Mullah, and the rest of the team at Ila Lodge. We came into Kafue knowing absolutely nothing about the park but left incredibly impressed with our safari. Don’t just take our words. Check out the video we made!

What Can You Do At Kafue National Park?

• Game Drive: This is the most popular activity to do on safari. Ila Lodge has an electric-powered Land Rover, so we could get up close to wildlife without all the engine noise.
• River Cruise: Cruise down the Kafue River and relax on either a speedboat or the lodge’s brand new e-boat! This is where we could get close to the leopards hanging out on the banks.
• Walking Safari: These are great to do if you want to stretch your legs, get active, and appreciate the smaller plants and animals of the bush. If you’re going on a bush walk, pack a good pair of safari boots.
• Fishing: During the season, you can head out to the river to try fishing.
• Dine with the Ladies Club: Have a traditional Zambian lunch with the ladies of Chunga Community!

What’s a Typical Day on Safari in the Kafue National Park Like?

• 05h30 – Wake up call (Bring a packable down jacket, it gets cold).
• 06h00 – Coffee and Biscuits
• 06h30 – Depart on morning activity. Take a drive on an electric Land Rover.
• 09h30 – Breakfast in the Bush
• 11:00 – Return from morning activity. Relax
• 12h30 – Lunch out on the solar-powered pontoon boat.
• 15h30 – Afternoon Tea/Coffee
• 16h00 – Head out on afternoon activity. Sundowner drinks while cruising on the river.
• 19h30 – Return from afternoon activity and relax with drinks before dinner.
• 20h00 – Dinner time!
• 22h00 – Sleep! It’s been a long day on safari

General Info for Traveling in Zambia

• The capital of Zambia is Lusaka which is one of the main entrance points into the country. We flew to Lusaka from Nairobi and stayed at the beautiful Latitude 15 hotel before making way for our safari.
• The main currency in Zambia is the Zambian Kwacha. However, USD is accepted at most safari lodges. Many places in Zambia do not accept credit cards.
• Check to see if you need a visa to enter Zambia. Americans can expect to pay $50 for a 30-day visa, or if traveling to Zambia and Zimbabwe, they can get a Uni-visa for $50, good for both countries for 30 days. Visas can usually be purchased on arrival, although you do have the option to get an e-visa beforehand. 
• We found most Zambians to be extremely friendly, with many in the tourism sector being able to speak excellent English.

What to Pack for Africa

Packing the right safari clothes is always a good idea, but it’s never essential because you can wear whatever you want. We also go in-depth on the best women’s safari clothes!

We’d had a rough couple of days driving in Zambia after discovering we had driven 1100 kilometers in the wrong direction. The result was a total re-route to our trip in Africa. The border post felt like a miracle because there was zero information on this border post, anywhere!

I’ll start from the beginning with hopes that no one will make the same mistake we did.

Driving in Zambia

Lusaka

We spent a week holed up hiding from the rain in the Protea Hotel Lusaka Tower. We had made the decision that New Year’s Eve would be fun in the capital city and we were craving good WiFi, healthy food, and a movie theater. Which is exactly what we got in Lusaka. We had another week until we were supposed to visit the amazing South Luangwa National Park before making our way into Southern Malawi. We had been very eager to visit both destinations.

We were almost guaranteed to see Leopards at South Luangwa by the multiple guides we had spoken with. Not wanting to spend another whole week in Lusaka, we decided to head north to Kasanka National Park and Mutinundo Wilderness reserve before crossing South Luangwa park.

Kasanka National Park

January in Zambia…the rainy season. The rainy season had yet to affect us, but once we got to Zambia we saw what all the fuss was about. We had driven 16 hours through the mud around Lake Kariba on some of the worst roads of our life. Thankfully, we have a trusty 4×4. So when we made our way to Kasanka National Park the rain and the mud were no different.

The largest mammal migration takes place every year in December at Kasanka. Millions of bats come to the swamp land and viewing the wildlife spectacle is supposedly incredible. We knew it was the beginning of January, but we thought we may still catch the winged creatures at Kasanka.

After paying an exuberant cash price to get into the deserted (and I mean deserted) park we were informed that the last bats had left the day prior. Perfect. Even though the bats were gone we still had the chance to be one with nature in the deep bush. We even managed a few short game drives between the downpours. Which, allowed us to spot the rare sitatunga, a semi-aquatic antelope, from a distance…

Mutinondo Wilderness Area

We left Kasanka with an empty wallet and zero photos of wildlife. It was still a beautiful spot in the untamed bush, we just wish we could have been there at a different time in the year.

We drove towards Kundalila Falls to see the view over the Luangwa Valley. When we finally saw the dilapidated sign for the falls we hung a right and made our way 13 km on the mud track. Almost every single Zambian we passed either stared hard daggers at us or held their hand out screaming “money” as we drove past. I suppose it was the first time they had seen a white traveler in a while.

We made it to the entrance way to the falls when a lone man appeared. He told us it would be 150 Kwacha ($15) a piece to walk down to the falls and 50 Kwacha ($5) to leave our car sitting in the big empty dirt car park. With another reminder of the price gouging in Zambia, we declined to pay $35 to see the falls and continued on our way.

We made it to our next destination, Mutinondo Wilderness, a while later. I told them we just needed one night at their campsite. Without them asking I decided to tell them of our future plans (and thank god I did). “We are heading to South Luangwa tomorrow. How long do you think it will take to get there?”

The two Dutch managers stared at me. “Oh, you can’t get to South Luangwa this time of year. You’ll have to drive back to Lusaka and around. I think it should take you about 21 hours.”

I stared at them, I looked at Cam, I stared back at them. I think I giggled a little in between…they had to be joking. “There has to be some sort of way to South Luangwa?” We were literally right next to it!

I continued to tell them that we just came from Lusaka and couldn’t even imagine paying the crazy petrol prices or taking the time to drive all that way again.

You see. There is a road between Mutinondo Wilderness Area and South Luangwa – even paper and  Google Maps confirm it. But see, it’s the rainy season in Africa, meaning the normal bad mud roads are now bad brown mush roads that are totally impassable. The road we thought we were going to take is only open three months out of the year. Traveling it any other time is pretty much signing a death certificate.

My friends, this is why you cannot just “wing Africa,” which I see so many people claiming they want to do. This is also why I really really wish Cameron and I were more bush smart and could just know this thing like the other overlanders we meet.

Our Choice?

After an hour of kicking ourselves and having a little cry (and a strong gin and tonic), we decided that we would have to cut out South Luangwa and Southern Malawi. With petrol in Zambia costing a whopping $1.40/Liter (over $5 a gallon) and time being a precious commodity, we would continue to northern Zambia before trying to cross over into Malawi from the north.

Leaving Zambia

We had to make the most out of our mistake so we spent a few fabulous days hiking in between the rain near Mutinondo before making our way up to Kapishya Hot Springs. From the hot springs, we were to drive into Malawi via the Chitipa border. The Chitipa border exists on a map, but outside of that, I couldn’t find any info on it. Some of the Africans we asked mentioned that the border post may, in fact, be absolutely nothing, and when I asked in the Overlanding Africa facebook group no one had been through the border.

This is Africa and things don’t always make sense. Even though there is a border post on the map doesn’t mean there is one in real life. I was beginning to stress how we would make it into Malawi legally with our car and once again cursed myself for not making it to South Luangwa so I could cross over the “easy” border post at Chipata. With nothing to lose…besides a ton of gas and time, we awoke at 5 am and made our way toward Malawi.

The Chitipa Border Post

We drove from Kapishya Hot Springs towards the Chitipa Border post. We stopped in Chinsali knowing this would be our last chance to get fuel. We followed Maps.me the whole time which is extremely accurate for bush driving. It takes three hours to get from the hot springs to Isoka. From there we turned off onto a dirt road. If you make the same drive then pray that it hasn’t rained in the past day because this road is long and muddy. It took us 2.5 hours to drive 114 km through what seemed like fifty small villages.

About one hour on the dirt road I finally said to Cam, “I hope we are going the right way.” My doubts started to get ahold of my mind so we pulled over so I could ask someone. We found a young Zambian on one of the coolest motorcycles I had ever seen. He told me we were heading towards Malawi, and that was good enough for me to keep going.

We never saw one single car the entire way, but we eventually made it to Malawi. I knew we made it to Malawi, not because of a large border post, but because I finally saw a pristine tarred road (yes, most of the roads in Malawi are tarred).

The border post does exist! We quickly stamped ourselves and our car out of Zambia, and I could sleep soundly knowing I didn’t have to enter or exit a country illegally.

Once you hit the tar road and stamp out of Zambia, the Malawian border post is 7 km further. The guards were all playing a game of bao when we rolled up and were some of the friendliest border guards I’ve ever come across. The visa fee for Americans (and many other nationalities) is now $75 paid in USD only, with bills only from 2013 or newer.

To get the car in we had to pay 10,000 Malawian Kwacha for a temporary import permit, payable in Kwacha only. We didn’t have any local currency so the border guard let us go to the nearest ATM to pull some out. We had Comesa (third-party insurance in Africa), which we flashed at the police officer on duty who seemed to care about his Facebook updates more than us. We experienced no runners at the Chitipa border and absolutely no hassle. It was honestly my African border post of dreams (unlike the border coming into Zambia).

Even though we drove 1100 kilometers in the wrong direction, and skipped Southern Malawi and South Luangwa, we are now on the shores of Lake Malawi sipping on cheap mojitos and kicking back on the clear blue water in the warm heart of Africa.

Africa Travel Tips

• Our Entire Africa Travel Story (What We Never Shared)
• Read These Tips On Travel in Africa
• What to Know Before You Go To Morocco
• Namibia Travel Tips You Should Know
• Things To Know Before You Travel To Botswana
• Read These Tips On Travel in Zimbabwe
• 12 Tips On Travel To Zanzibar You Should Read
• 20 South Africa Travel Tips

Safari Destinations

• The Best Safari Destinations To Sport Wildlife
• Your Guide To Mana Pools, Zimbabwe
• The Magic of Kafue National Park
• A Masai Mara Guide For Safari Goers
• Africa’s Safari Animals And Where To Find Them
• Gorilla Trekking in Uganda – All You Need To Know
• Inside Tanzania’s Selous Game Reserve
• A Week in South Luangwa National Park

Five minutes after landing in the Lower Zambezi we were face to face with a pride of lions devouring a kudu.

Not only is the area teaming with wildlife, but the whole park is stunning. The mighty Zambezi snakes along the Southern edge of the park and to the North rises the towering Zambezi Escarpment.

It feels as if it has been hidden away in time.

In a game drive here visitors will cross a varying landscape from thick mopane forest, dazzling winterthorn trees, and huge acacias. What makes the park shine brighter is the wide range of safari activities on offer. You can paddle, walk, cruise, and drive in search of the parks bountiful game.

Lower Zambezi National Park Safari Guide

Where is the Lower Zambezi National Park?

The Lower Zambezi National Park is located about 150 km east of Lusaka and shares a border with Mozambique to the east and Zimbabwe to the south.

It is one of Zambia’s premier parks and boasts untouched wilderness. The park lies almost directly opposite Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools National Park and is only split by the mighty Zambezi River.

How to get to Lower Zambezi National Park?

The best way to get to the Lower Zambezi National Park is via Lusaka. Domestic flights fly in and out of the International Airport. It’s a short 30 minute bush flight away with Proflight to Jeki airstrip. Guests may also charter a plane into the Kulefu airstrip.

For the more adventurous you can self-drive into the Lower Zambezi National Park. From Chirundu the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe it takes about two hours by truck to reach the park gate. We suggest self-drivers to communicate with their lodges team in advanced. As most lodges can provide their knowledge to best reach them.

We flew in by plane from Lusaka and exited via speedboat to Chirundu on our way to Mana Pools. If you are combining this safari with Mana Pools you will have to get to the Chirundu border post to stamp out of Zambia and into Zimbabwe, and then travel to the entrance of Mana Pools National Park.

Lower Zambezi National Park Entrance Fees

The Lower Zambezi is one of the more affordable National Parks in Africa. Fees are good for 06:00 hours to 18:00 hours – not 24 hours!

Park Fees are as follows:

• Citizens – 41.70 Zambian Kwacha per day
• Residents – $20 per day
• Foreigners – $25 per day

Best Places to Stay in the Lower Zambezi

Old Mondoro

Old Mondoro is one of our favorite lodges in Africa. The lodge sits on a lovely point along the Zambezi River that is frequented by animals. It is intimate, basic, and surrounded by wilderness. The concept of Old Mondoro is simplistic. Although it is a permanent camp it embodies the feeling of a bush camp.

Almost all the structures in camp remain open to the elements and it allows guests to be enveloped by the wild.

Yet at the same time, modern luxuries are supplied. There are hot showers, comfortable beds, fantastic food, and power points to charge electronics. Those lucky enough to stay in here are treated to Africa at its finest.

There are only four chalets at Old Mondoro and one family unit. The reed and canvas chalets all have an outdoor shower and bathtub. Afternoon siestas can be enjoyed from the comfortable shaded cushioned seating area in the front.

The whole camp feels spacious, intimate and isolated. Its proximity to the river leads to regular visitors such as hippos, buffalo, waterbuck, and elephant.

In the dry season, the camp teems with wildlife. Elephants are the most common visitors as they rummage around the underbrush in search of Ana tree pods.

Our favorite aspect of Old Mondoro is the communal building. This is where guests enjoy breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, and dinner.

Every morning guests gather around a large fire pit for a classic bush breakfast. At night, dinner is served family style at a table next to the fire underneath the African night sky.

Meal times at Old Mondoro are always an experience to look forward to. Breakfast is “Bush style.” Meaning there are fresh fruits, oatmeal, toast, and eggs to get you going. Lunches are a healthy and light mix of vegetarian, vegan, and meat bites while dinners are indulgent three-course meals.

This camp is all we dream about when it comes to an authentic safari. In one of the most isolated locations of the park, small and intimate, and surrounded by the African wilderness. There is no better way to experience the bush than sitting in this camp.

Chiawa Camp

Chiawa Camp is Old Mondoro’s sister camp and run by the same family owners. The camp is located about an hour boat ride upstream from Old Mondoro.

Chiawa doesn’t strive away from the luxury. With nine verandas or “tents” the camp is about double the size of Old Mondoro and despite the size, the lodge does not lose its bush feeling.

Each veranda is thoughtfully designed to cater to African luxury. Vintage bathtubs, indoor and outdoor showers, a plethora of comfortable seating, and even internet for those that wish to stay connected on safari. The king-sized beds are draped with mosquito nets and sure to offer guests a good nights sleep.

The main lodge features a second story viewing terrace and a full bar. However, some of the unique features of the camp are two well-placed hides, a swimming pool, and even a fitness center.

Chiawa does a tremendous job ensuring that each guest is meticulously cared for and is comfortable.

Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are scattered around the property and are a fresh blend of delicious Zambian and healthy cuisines. We enjoyed lunch on a river cruise one afternoon on the Zambezi River.

We loved their signature Bedrock Dinner. The Bedrock Dinner is set in a hidden location about 10 minutes from Chiawa under the stars and next to a huge boulder. Guests are surprised one evening arriving at the dinner location after a game drive.

The night is a braai complete with drinks, fireside stories, and a delicious array of meats and veggies. Chiawa does this special dinner two times a week and I would highly recommend enjoying at least one dinner out in the bush.

Both Old Mondoro and Chiawa have some of the best guides in the business. We found all the guides here to be professional, knowledgeable, and personable.

There is a wide selection of activities on offer at both camps including day and night game drives, walking safaris, canoe trips, fishing, and river safaris.

With five days in the Lower Zambezi, it’s safe to say we enjoyed each of these activities to the fullest. On one night game drive we spotted a pack of eight wild dogs and even a porcupine!

I would suggest anyone coming to the Lower Zambezi to try out both camps. Old Mondoro is a lodge that is more down to earth, tucked away into the African wilderness and hidden away from time. Chiawa is the luxury set in the heart of the African bush.

Anabezi

Another camp that is located far away from the modern world, but still on the banks of the Zambezi is Anabezi on the lower end of the park.

The name comes from the Ana Tree, which can be found all along the property. Anabezi is one of the largest camps in the Lower Zambezi but is easily one of the most luxurious. The camp caters to the modern traveler who still wants to get lost in the Zambian Bush.

There are 12 spacious tents at Anabezi, two main lodges and bars, and two main pools. We were in for a surprise when we stepped into our tent at Anabezi as this is perhaps one of the biggest tents we have stayed in Africa. Each tent features two twin or double beds, an indoor and outdoor bathroom, indoor and outdoor lounge area, as well as a plunge pool on a raised deck overlooking the Mushika River flood plain.

The deck and plunge pool come in good use during the dry season when temperatures soar and the yellow ana pods fall from the trees attracting all sorts of life.

After we found our way around our new house at Anabezi we made our way for sundowner drinks and dinner at the main lodge. The main lodge has been built around the natural surrounding landscapes and is the ideal place to relax while catching up with other safari goers.

The main lodge is where all meals are served, and staying true to Zambian fashion we enjoyed an excellent three-course meal here under the stars but next to the fire.

Unfortunately, we only had enough time to go out on one game drive with our Anabezi guide, Mwila. However, because the Lower Zambezi is so wonderful we were able to spot feeding lions, a herd of elephants, and mating Impala all during the safari.

Best Time to Visit the Lower Zambezi National Park

Most lodges close during the rainy season (December to March) since the roads become impassable. They usually open back up from April to November.

The dry season is from June to October and this is when you will have the best game viewing as the bush has dried up and you can find the wildlife near the river. We visited in May and still had the chance to see wild dogs, plenty of elephants, hippo, buffalo, and lions.

Activities in the Lower Zambezi National Park

In our opinion the very best thing about the Lower Zambezi National Park is not the great wildlife viewing or stunning views – it’s the number of activities you can consume your day with! With five days in the park, we tried every activity on offer, some even a couple of times. The main activities in the Lower Zambezi National Park are:

Day and night game drives: Obviously in an African national park game drives are the main draw, but what we loved about the Lower Zambezi was the freedom to go on night game drives. Night game drives are not allowed in many national parks in Africa, but we love them! They allow guests to have the chance to see some of the nocturnal animals. Hyenas, porcupines, aardvarks, genets, and pangolins are among some of the creatures you may be able to spot at night. Plus, with night game drives you don’t have to hurry back to your lodge after sunset!

Canoeing: With most lodging options being situated right on the Zambezi River it’s little wonder why canoeing is an option. It’s great to get out on the water without engines running and feeling the thrill of being so close to hippos and crocs!

Walking Safaris: Zambia is one of the best places in Africa to go on a walking safari. Along with Zimbabwe, their guides are among some of the best in Africa.  To get to go on a walking safari in the Lower Zambezi is an incredible experience. We were able to get up close to elephants on foot while also learning about the plants, droppings, and insects that contribute to the eco system.

River Safaris: Sundowner cruises are among my favorite activities to do in Africa. I love being able to have a smooth ride while sipping a gin and tonic listening to the hippos grunt at me. River cruises on the Zambezi are a popular activity to do here.

Fishing: From late August to November, the Tiger fishing on the Zambezi is exceptional, although fish can be caught throughout the year. There is a strict catch and release policy for any fishing in order to minimize our environmental footprint.

What’s a typical day on safari in the Lower Zambezi like?

• 05h30 – Wake up call with coffee or tea
• 06h00 – Light bush breakfast sometimes accompanied with a fire
• 06h30 – Depart on morning activity. We recommend doing walking safaris in the morning as after about 9:00 temperatures will get too hot to walk.
• 11h30 – Return from morning activity and get ready for lunch.
• 12:30 – Siesta time! Now is the perfect time to relax, read a book, or jump in the pool
• 15h30 – Afternoon tea and coffee
• 16h00 – Head out on afternoon activity. Usually accompanied with sundowner drinks
• 19h30 – Return from afternoon activity and relax with drinks before dinner.
• 20h00 – Dinner time!

General Info for Traveling in Zambia

• The capital of Zambia is Lusaka and is one of the main entrance points into the country. We flew to Lusaka from Nairobi and stayed at the beautiful Latitude 15 hotel before we made way for our safari.
• The main currency in Zambia is the Zambian Kwacha. Although USD is acceptable at most safari lodges. Many places in Zambia do not accept credit card.
• Malaria is not prevalent in the Lower Zambezi National Park. However, for piece of mind, you can take the proper malaria prophylaxis to help protect yourself. You can read our personal accounts on malaria here.
• Check to see if you need a visa to enter Zambia. Americans can expect to pay $50 for a 30-day visa, or if traveling to Zambia and Zimbabwe they can get a Uni-visa for $50 good for both countries for 30 days. Visas can usually be purchased on arrival although you do have the option to get an e-visa beforehand. 
• We found most Zambians to be extremely friendly, with many in the tourism sector being able to speak excellent English.

What to Pack for Africa

Packing the right safari clothes is always a good idea, but it’s never essential because you can wear whatever you want. We also go in-depth on the best women’s safari clothes!

We had an amazing time exploring the Okavango Delta and Chobe National Park, but there was one thing that had been looming over our head – the Botswana/Zambian border. The hectic Kazungula border crossing and ferry are notoriously soul sucking. We knew self-driving over the border would go one of two ways – easy peasy or painstakingly difficult.

On to the Kazungula Ferry

A few days before we were set to cross, we were hanging out at the Old Bridge Backpackers in Maun chatting to a few Zimbabweans about our adventure. We told them we were heading to Zambia and Zimbabwe next with Charlie and they explained that we absolutely needed a police clearance to drive into those countries. A police clearance is a certificate stating that you own your car, it is not stolen, and that you can drive it over borders. Police certificates should be issued from the country your car is registered from, a big problem for us since we are not allowed back in South Africa.

I had never heard of this Police Clearance before, but we’ve been having a decent amount of trouble as self-drivers with our car in Africa so we didn’t want to take anything to chance. We went to the Maun Police Office and showed them our papers and asked them for a police clearance. It was a weekend and this is Africa so they wouldn’t issue us one, but they assured us that we would be fine and we had all the right papers for our car.

In case you missed it we bought our own car in Cape Town but had to register it under a friends name because we couldn’t obtain a TRN as foreigners. So we have the proof of purchase, registration, and a power of attorney over the vehicle. There is nothing explaining what exactly we will need to cross borders anywhere…this is Africa after all. (I wonder how many times I will say that in twelve months?) Since there is so much vagueness about regulations in Africa we have no choice but to trust the locals or ask in Facebook groups like these online.

We woke up at 5:30 am and made our way to Kazungula border with our papers and Charlie in hand. There are semi trucks lined up for days outside the border waiting to get cleared for the Kazungula ferry, but private vehicles can drive right past them to the border. Needless to say, this land border is the most chaotic I have seen but since it is the meeting point between Zimbabwe, Botswana, Zambia, and Namibia it should be expected.

Welcome to Africa, I thought as we drove up. Long gone are the easy days of driving around South Africa, Swaziland, and Namibia. Oh no – we hadn’t seen this part Africa since our wonderful month in Mozambique. This is what we came here for, why we created “Hashtag Africa,” and why we spent a small fortune to buy a Land Cruiser. We’re doing this.

There were touts and buskers everywhere as we pulled up to Botswana immigration office. Cam and I, therefore, decided not to leave the car unattended at this border crossing. This proved to be a very good decision as during our whole three hours at the border, no one ever left the car alone. The first step was stamping out of Botswana – child’s play. Then came the hard part of getting the car out. Cam showed immigration the papers first, and because he didn’t have a “police clearance” like we feared they wouldn’t let us out of the country. I was in no way expecting this problem actually leaving Botswana. He came out frazzled an hour later after being turned around multiple times. Police clearances can take days to sort out and sometimes have to be done in the cars registration country.

I decided to try my luck while Cam stayed at the car. I went into the bustling office and made my way to the youngest, nicest looking woman in the room. I claimed that I was confused as to how I can get my car out of Botswana and told her I had all my papers. She looked at my papers briefly and stamped the car right on out. There is no proper system in Africa – so don’t ever give up.

We left Botswana and made our way to the Kazungula ferry crossing. Every runner around is begging for your attention and attempting to “help” you out. Unless you want help then don’t bother talking to him or her. We had one drunken guy hanging around our car the entire time asking for money. He had red and white reflective stickers that he wanted to sell us for 200 Kwacha ($20). These are mandatory in Zambia/Zimbabwe, but there wass no way in hell we would ever pay that much for stickers. We kept telling him to leave our car and us alone. I knew from the get-go this wouldn’t be easy.

Once we stamped out of Botswana and got to the ferry crossing we found two ferries to choose from. There was a Botswana ferry marked by the Botswana flag or a Zambian ferry marked with a Zambian flag. The Botswana ferry cost 200 Pula (about $19) and the Zambian ferry costs 150 Kwacha (about $15). We were carrying USD and with an almost 10:1 ratio on both currencies and no line for either ferry we took the cheaper Zambian vessel. However, I would recommend taking whatever ferry is quicker.

Mr. Drunk Red Shirt man decided to follow us and slapped stickers on our car while we weren’t looking. This infuriated me and I kept asking him to stop and to leave us alone. He told me that “my husband” told him to do it, and he told Cam that “his wife” told him to do it – both of us knew this was not true. Don’t let them fool you with this, as it is obviously a scam. We tried hard to ignore Mr. Drunk Red Shirt for the remainder of our time at the border.

After reading about a few of similar from Maggie in Africa about the Kazungula Border Crossing we decided it would be much easier if we hired a fixer on the Zambian side to sort us through everything. We found a helpful (sober) man with his own “agency” to help us out. He initially asked us for 200 Kwacha, but I was not paying more than 150 Kwacha so eventually, he took that rate. Always know your currency and exchange rates before getting to the border.

I guarded the car while Cam spent the next hour sorting out the carbon tax, third party insurance, visas, road tax, and council tax. Together, the two of us spent about $280 entering Zambia with our car – in other words; it was a very expensive day.

Where did Our Money at the Kazungula Ferry Go?

Visas

A single entry visa into Zambian will cost Americans $50 payable in USD. We needed a double entry valid for 90 days. The double entry cost us $80, but make sure they fill out your visa right. The customs official I went to got my first and last name switched and I had to ask him to redo it.

Insurance

The next biggest fee was our third party insurance, which cost us $50. There was no information on this, so I have no idea if this was the correct price or if we were taken for yet another ride.  We did find out later that we could have negotiated this price down, but with little to no information, we had no idea that we could do this.

Council tax

60 Kwacha – only payable in Kwacha. I suppose this goes to the council…

Carbon Tax

We paid 200 Kwacha – payable in cash only for an engine over 4000 cc. This was the most expensive option and engines with less cc cost less.

Road Tax

$20 for South African registered vehicles.

Fixers Fee

We paid our fixer $12. In hindsight, we are not sure if it was a good idea or worth the cost. He certainly made things easy at a very confusing crossing. However, we probably could have figured it out ourselves by spending more time at the border.

We had to show all of our paperwork for the car and we were not asked for a carnet or for a police clearance certificate on the Zambian side. All they needed was the proof of ownership (in our case a Power of Attorney letter) and registration papers.

Our fixer had collected all the fees and told us we owed him one lump sum in USD at the end. Our fixer had “loaned” us the Kwacha that we needed for the Carbon and Council tax. He initially gave Cam a 7:1 exchange rate (Kwacha to USD) and claimed that was the correct exchange rate. Another scam – I guess he didn’t realize we were Americans yet and knew the correct dollar amount. We knew that it was 10:1 ratio and that he was just trying to rip us off. After some mild bartering, Cam got him down to proper exchange rate.

We ended up paying our runner a grand fee of $12 ($2 more than I had agreed to) to organize all of the Zambian paperwork for us. We saw groups of people that had entered the border crossing before us trying to sort out their vehicles themselves and I want to note that they were still there when we left. In fact, they were only at the first stop in the immigration process. So, depending on your level of patience and time I would recommend spending the money and hiring a local to save you from a headache.

Finally, we had our paperwork and were on our way. But not before Mr. Drunk Red Shirt man made one last attempt to harass us for 200 Kwacha for the stickers he slapped on our vehicle without asking. We ended up giving him $2 to make him just go away, but he made our three hours much more difficult and annoying in both Botswana and Zambia.

Although the border was difficult and left a big dent in our wallets we were heading to one of the most beautiful places in Africa – stay tuned.

General Advice for the Kazungula Ferry Border Crossing

• We expect this to be one of the worst borders we cross in Africa – fingers crossed!
• Don’t come hungry; you could be here for a while
• Watch your things and your car. We are driving a big Land Cruiser and just about every Joe Schmo was eyeing the car. Maybe the thought it was a cool car (because it is!) or maybe they had other ideas. Either way, I’m happy that we were able to always have one person at the car while the other was able to do things.
• The biggest thing for us was that our car is registered in someone else’s name and all we have is a Power of Attorney letter giving us legal rights over the vehicle. I believe that if you outright own your vehicle and have all the papers or are heading back into Botswana within 30 days it will be a much easier time.
• There doesn’t seem to be many hard-set rules here. As the case for Cameron getting turned away and denied crossing, while I was able to smoothly get all the paperwork stamped.
• Plan to be at the border for at least 2 hours. Arrive early in the day for the quickest turnaround.
• There are a few banks and Bureau de change offices in Kasane town to get USD for the border. They were not issuing Kwacha at this time of writing, but you may be able to get a local to do this for you at the border for a very bad exchange rate. Note that currency that will come in handy here are USD, Pula, and Kwacha. No South African Rand will be accepted.
• There is also a Barclays Bank and a few independent change Bureaus in Livingstone should you have any cash that you need to swap. We found a Barclays bank in the Avani shopping center right near the Vic Falls Bridge that gave a good rate and you could pull USD out with a card with the teller.