When I first visited Croatia back in 2013, I thought of it as an unheard-of destination, and to most Americans it was, but when I visited I learned of its longtime popularity with the Slavs, Italians, and Germans.

The secret appears to have gotten out to the rest of the world in recent years. When we returned in 2016, we found Americans gallivanting around every corner, and English being spoken in even the most remote of places. Croatia is no longer “off the beaten path,” and is moving on towards becoming a touristic juggernaut.  

Almost everyone knows the small city of Dubrovnik, and Croatia became a member of the EU in 2013. We were able to spend five weeks in Croatia and embarked on the ultimate road trip to find the best of what the country has to offer during all seasons and help answer the question of where to go in Croatia.

Where Should You Go in Croatia?

Zagreb

Many Croatian vacations may start and end in the capital city.  While the city has no major attractions like the Eiffel Tower or the Colosseum, it hums with positive energy that can’t be found anywhere else in the Balkans. Zagreb is surprisingly trendy, houses a large university population, and is an exciting blend of communist-era buildings, pedestrian streets, and medieval architecture.

Although this city is often overlooked, I have found that Zagreb is one of my favorite capital cities in Europe, and perhaps it is why I am coming back.  There are so many things to do and see in the Croatian capital. Even if it’s December and you’re wondering where to go in Croatia in the dead of European winter, Zagreb’s the city.

Things to do in Zagreb, Croatia

• Zagreb Funicular: To get between Zagreb’s upper and lower towns, take a ride on the Zagreb Funicular. This tram is one of the steepest in the world and only costs 10 HRK for a ride. A great view of Zagreb awaits you at the top. If you would rather get some exercise in you can also climb the stairs to the side of the Funicular and be met with a beautiful park. We spent a quiet afternoon there watching the city.
• Museum of Broken Relationships: If you find yourself in Zagreb on a rainy day then head to this museum located in Zagreb’s Upper Town. The name says it all, this is a museum dedicated to broken relationships. The building is filled with trinkets and loved possessions that were donated by real people who found themselves in a “broken relationship.” However, the appeal doesn’t lie in the objects themselves but instead in reading the hundreds of stories told by their former owners. Allow at least an hour to read all the sad, funny, and quirky stories there. All the softies should make sure to bring a box of tissues for the heartaches.
• Dolac Market: A daily fruit and vegetable market is just north of Trg Bana Jelačića. Dolac market is a lively place to observe, eat like a local, and support local business owners. Almost every city in Europe has its own form of a market, and it’s often a great way to get the feel of a city. Dolac Market operates Mon-Fri from 6.30 am-3 pm, Sat to 2pm, Sun to 1pm.
• St. Marks Church: If you have just an hour free in Zagreb’s city center, then take the funicular up to the upper town and see St. Marks Church. Sure, it may just be another European church but after seeing the roof I couldn’t help but feel impressed by this detailed craftsmanship.
• Shop: Did you forget your bikini? Go shopping in this metropolis before you head south to Dalmatia. Zagreb is a shoppers paradise. Here you will find all the name brand stores that you may be missing from your home country.
• Velvet Cafe: Velvet cafe is a quiet cafe that is perfect for meet-ups, evening drinks, or to get some quality reading in. The cafe interior looks like the inside of the castle in Beauty and the Beast, and is one of the only cafes in Zagreb that is non-smoking. Located near the end of Dežmanova ul.

Istria Region

Istria is the northwestern triangle-shaped region of Croatia that is bordered by Italy and Slovenia. This peninsula has been ruled by the Venetians, Romans, Byzantines, Austro-Hungarians, Italians, and Yugoslavians – making it truly diverse in history and culture. Italian and German speakers will also have an easier time here since both languages are widely spoken in the area. Many people come to Croatia, head to Dalmatia, and go home – don’t make that mistake! Here are some of our favorite places in Istria.

Rovinj

It’s a mighty hard decision to pick the most beautiful city in Croatia, but I think Rovinj might just take the cake. And it should certainly be a top choice when you are wondering where to go in Croatia. The colorful city may as well be a cousin to the Cinque Terre in Italy, and makes Dubrovnik look a plain Jane. Visitors should immediately head to the old town of Rovinj, which is small and walkable.

The Church of St. Euphemia is also worth visiting and is free to the public, although the real charm is strolling through the cobbled alleyways and enjoying the ambiance and local stores around. Make sure to Have a coffee at Brasserie Adriatic for great views and to feel posh at affordable prices.

Motovun

“Town of the Truffles.” At least that’s what I want to call Motovun. Here you can find truffle oil, truffle butter, truffle ice-cream, truffle cheese, truffle pasta, truffle alcohol, and truffle MANIA. Wherever you walk in Motovun you will hear some sort of talk of truffles, and trying them in the town should not be missed. The forests surrounding Motovun are covered in pedunculate oak, abundant in continental Croatia, which makes for some of the best hosts for white truffles.  There are many local operators that will even take visitors truffle hunting through the forests for about €50. We loved walking around the small medieval fortress on top of the steep hill and stopping can stop for a glass of local wine on tap (6-9 HRK) while gazing over the Mirna valley.  There is also great biking and hiking trails around Motovun, and even paragliding for the fearless. One absolutely must eat at Konoba Mondo for an unforgettable truffle experience. The restaurant is small, quaint, and was frequented by my favorite foodie, Anthony Bourdain.  Prices are affordable and the food is exceptional.

Pula

Well known for the ancient ruins scattered all around the city, Pula is much trendier than the rest of Istria. The main sight here is the Roman amphitheater which is the 6th largest surviving amphitheater in the world. Visitors can walk around the outside to get picture perfect photos, or pay 55 HRK to explore inside the circle like the Romans once did. The main square is built on the old ancient Roman forum and it is here that you will find the Temple of August from the first century. Needless to say, if history is your thing then you should definitely head to Pula while in Croatia.

Fažana

About a 10-minute drive from Pula is her quiet sister, Fažana. We came here not knowing what to expect on our way to see the amphitheater and ended up staying for a few hours to soak up the sun. Fažana has beautiful pebble beaches complete with a colorful town square and numerous waterfront restaurants serving up fresh seafood. Fažana is also the jumping off point to get to the Brijuni islands.

Bale

We traveled to Bale in mid-May and were pleasantly surprised not to find a soul around. We had a great time strolling through the old quiet streets that were filled with bright pink and red rose bushes in full bloom. Bale is a tiny town, but it does have plenty of hiking and cycling trails located right outside the main square. Be sure to have a coffee at Kamene Priče for excellent cappuccinos, eclectic decor, and if you’re lucky a live jazz show.

Labin

On the east coast of the Istrian peninsula lies the colorful town of Labin.  We stopped here on our way out of Istria for the day and instantly fell in love with the sleepy town. Labin is by far the most colorful place we visited in Istria with each old building painted in different hues of blue, yellow, pink and orange. We spent about an hour just taking photos of all the pretty doors!  Don’t forget to bring your camera. You will want it for the vibrant colors of Labin!

Plitvice Lakes

Plitvice Lakes National Park is sure to be high on anyone’s itinerary when traveling through Croatia. The park’s lakes are stunning and something you must see before you die. The national park, Plitvice Lakes National Park, is the largest of Croatia’s national parks and has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979. The park is easily accessible from Zagreb, Zadar, and Split. With the abundance of accessible routes, there is absolutely no reason to not make a day out to the park while in Croatia.

Plitvice Lakes are unlike any other place we’ve been to on earth. This is due to the phenomenon of karst hydrography. A unique example of geology in which limestone and dolomite have eroded over time into the water creating underwater tunnels and channels. The result is a set of 16 lakes at various elevations cascading down in turquoise waterfalls. The park is a series of endless elevated paths, thick moody forests, rare glimpses of wildlife and of course the unreal geography.  Seriously, photos do not do this place justice.

Things to do in Plitvice Lakes

• Kayak the Lakes: When dry land doesn’t suit your fancy, hop in a kayak and see the lakes from a different point of view. There are a few companies like Raftrek that organize full day tours for less than 300 HRK! We couldn’t believe how beautiful Croatia was from the water when we went sea-kayaking in Split and whitewater rafting down the Cetina River.
• Visit Plitvice Lakes: As mentioned, there are 16 lakes in total that fall from many magnificent waterfalls to create a breathtaking natural formation. The park is huge and we recommend a full day to experience all that it has to offer. Rain or shine the park and the lakes are always stunning. The park is open year round and admission prices vary depending on the season.  If you are not big on walking around all the day there are shuttles and ferry boats to take you around the park, but it should be noted that the best views require some walking. We suggest wearing comfortable shoes, bringing a camera (and a case – water is everywhere) and carrying a water bottle. Bonus, if you bring a LifeStraw Go water bottle you can fill your bottle up with some of the lakes fresh water.
• Go Hiking: There are plenty of great hikes around this beautiful region of Croatia. The hike up Plješevica Mountain reveals lush forests with a moderate to intense climb. For an easier trek take the afternoon and catch a sunset on Mrsinj Grad. The hike through Plješevica Mountain takes a full day; however, the hike up to Mrsinj Grad leads through an old fortress and only takes about three hours. Falling Lakes Hostel can organize a trip any day to either of these locations.
• Grab a bite to eat:  There aren’t a ton of options for food near Plitvice Lakes so prepare to put on a cooking apron. However, we found that Restoran Degenija is about a 10-minute drive from the parks and is popular for traditional Croatian food and pizza!

Zadar

Thanks to Ryan Air, the past five years have brought an influx of budget backpackers to Zadar, turning this Dalmatian city into a party town. Be warned, that is not the only reason one should travel to this lovely city by sea. For starters, Zadar is the biggest city of north-central Dalmatia and has a rich history. It was voted the Best European Destination for 2016 and even Alfred Hitchcock himself said that you can find the “best sunset in the world here.” There are tons of amazing things to keep visitors occupied throughout all times of the year.

Things to do in Zadar

• Old Town: It wouldn’t be a Croatian city without an Old Town.  The old town here is much smaller than in Split, but larger than Hvar. Nevertheless, it is easily walkable.  Exploring the old town will take at least half a day as there is an abundance of ruins, churches, and cafes to occupy time. People’s Square, Narodni Trg, is the central meeting point in the old town and has been since the Renaissance era.  It’s been said that sitting at a cafe in the center of town is the “hip” thing one can do. My favorite cafe bar was “Sveti Lovre” literally set inside the well-preserved church of St. Lawrence. How many times have you ordered a latte inside a pre-Romanesque church?Or take a coffee to go and stroll around the Roman Ruins located right next to the Church of St. Donatus.  For €2, you can gallivant into this old Church and marvel at the architecture that is now used for concerts and galas throughout the year.
• Sea Organ & Greeting to the Sun: The Greeting to the Sun and the Sea Organ are two things that should not be missed in Zadar. Located at the end of the Old Town facing Northwest is the Greeting to the Sun, a giant 22-meter wide circle made up of three hundred multi-layered glass plates. The glass plates are solar powered and at night, the giant circle comes life to produce a spectacular and colorful light show.While this spectacle of lights is happening, you can hear sounds of the nearby Sea Organ creating a splendid atmosphere to celebrate the end of the day. The Sea Organ is exactly what you think, a musical instrument in the sea. Throughout the entire day, the organ plays music from the tubes located underneath a set of steps by way of the constant waves of the Mediterranean.
• Nin: Where to go in Croatia for a little tranquility and skin therapy? About 20 km away from Zadar, is the alluring town of Nin. Take the 30-minute local bus (17 HRK) to get there for a day trip just outside of Zadar. The town is charming and well known for its production of salt. However, the draw in our opinion are the medicinal thermal mud baths. Walk along the long and sandy Queens Beach and you will come to a more foraged part of water. There is no mistaking that you will know you are at the magical mud baths when you arrive. Don’t think – just jump in and slather yourself in the mud of Nin. For optimal results, let the mud dry on your body for 30 minutes, rinse and repeat. You may smell like a bag of farts, but your skin will thank you!
• Take the ferry to Ugljan: Zadar is well-connected with a solid ferry system. Any day is a good day to take the ferry over to the island of Ugljan. The ferry will bring you into the town of Preko, and a walk along the coast will eventually bring you to the trail leading up to St. Michael Fort.The hike up is fairly easy, and takes about an hour, but the views over the neighboring islands are stunning. Don’t forget a bottle of wine, some dinner, and a travel buddy to enjoy the spectacular sunset.
• Grab a Beer: Hands down the best place to grab a cold beer are at Tequila Sunrise, located on Punta Bajlo Beach. Here you will find a great selection of beers, seats to gaze into the sea, and a cliff perfect to dive into the cool waters below on a hot day.

Pag

The island of Pag is one of those places that you don’t find until you’re in Croatia and someone brings it up. Thinking you need some party time and don’t know where to go in Croatia? The main town on Pag, Novalja, is known for primarily one thing – partying. However, there are other great activities asides from drinking your liver into despair.

Needless to say, the shoulder season is the preferred visiting time in our opinion. You can enjoy things like the natural beauty, colorful sunsets, and general quietness of the island. Visitors will be a bit shocked when visiting Pag to find it is not lush like the island of Hvar. This is due to the strong winds and salt that is sprayed by Bora, killing almost any vegetation on the island. There is a certain beauty in the island’s natural rugged terrain.

Things to do in Pag

• Make Pag cheese: Anyone making the effort to reach Pag has to try the cheese.  The cheese is made from sheep’s milk, is hard, distinctly flavored, and is nationally revered. Before you dig in to try this amazing cheese it should be noted that the cheese gets better with age. We were able to visit Vidas, a local family producer, who produces and sells the world renowned Pag cheese. What is the secret behind the distinct flavors? Pag Bora. Or a strong, cool, dry wind on the island that carries the dry salt dust over from the nearby Velebit mountains. The free roaming sheep eat the salt while grazing, this salt carries over to their milk, the milk is used to produce the cheese, humans eat the cheese…you get the picture.
• Moped around the island: To get better acquainted with the island, try hiring a moped for the day to get around. Renting a moped allows one to see the small towns on the island and catch stunning vistas of the crystal clear waters. Petrol is fairly inexpensive in Croatia and a one-day moped rental will run you approximately 150 HRK in the off season and 250 HRK in June-August.
• Party at Zrce Beach: Zrće Beach is a long stone beach that draws the attentions of thousands of partygoers each year.  The beach is lined with clubs, bars, tattoo stands, and even a bungee jump operating until all hours of the night in the summer months. You cannot mention the island Pag and avoid Zrće. Even though Zrće has been named one of the best party places in Europe and has been nicknamed “The Croatian Ibiza,” the water is still crystal blue and it is still a great place to go relax during the day time.
• Stara Novalja: Stara Novalja is an old town (literally translating to “Old Novalja”) with a long sand beach and small town. Even though it was April I enjoyed lounging about here and making new friends while digging my toes in the Croatian sand.

Split

Many travelers on a tour of Croatia will probably stop off in the coastal city of Split, for good reason too. After Zagreb, Split is the second largest city in Croatia and is conveniently located in the center of Dalmatia between Zadar and Dubrovnik. The city makes for a great jumping off point for those heading to the island of Hvar. Split is beaming with coastal energy and from the moment you step off the bus, train, or ferry you will feel energized. Roaming past the waterfront cafes on the smooth cobbled streets seems like a great way to pass the day in Split. The capital of Dalmatia is the perfect place to soak up that laid back Balkan cafe scene by the water and chill out for a few days.

Things to do in Split

• Bačvice Beach for bathing: Bacvice beach is by far the most popular beach in Split. The Dalmatian coast does not have many sandy beaches, but Bacvice offers you soft a sandy retreat and calm waters to relax. The cafes are perfect to sit, enjoy a cappuccino, and people watch the day away.
• Visit Diocletian’s Palace: This ancient palace was built by the Roman emperor Diocletian and now makes up more than half of the old town in Split. It would be almost impossible to avoid seeing the beautiful palace while visiting. Diocletian’s Palace was also a filming location for the fourth season of Game of Thrones, acting as Daenerys’ throne room in Mereen for all you fans out there. We felt that just a wander around was enough to appreciate the sheer size of the palace. The star of Diocletian’s Palace is actually the basement where the best-preserved parts of the palace.
• Get Active: Besides strolling around Split you can also enjoy some of the area’s best outdoor activities. Try your hand at kayaking in the beautiful blue water, go mountain biking, hiking, rock-climbing, canyoning, diving, or go rafting for a day. You didn’t just come to Croatia to sit around, did you?

Hvar

If you’re wondering where to go in Croatia on for a luxurious holiday, then Hvar is your answer. A 2-hour ferry ride away from Split lies the sunny island of Hvar. Hvar is very well known for almost all tourist from those on massive private yachts to newlyweds, families, and the young coming for a party. Hvar is beautiful year round and even promotes itself as “the sunniest spot in Europe.” With over 2715 hours of sunlight in an average year, Hvar has some very tan locals and some of the countries best wine. Peak season is July and August, and you can look at the sky high prices to confirm that. We recommend going in April or September when the weather is warm, but tourists are scarce. 

Things to do in Hvar

• Get moving: The island provides some of the best adventure and outdoor activities in the region. There are many different trails and hikes around the island ranging from easy to difficult. Some very popular excursions include kayaking around the Pakleni islands and rock climbing.
• Explore the whole island: One of the highlights of our time in Hvar was renting a powerful ATV and exploring the whole island on our own schedule! Roads go from paved to dirt, and sometimes you are literally right on the cliff overlooking your death – but we lived! If you really want to make the most out of your time and see Hvar, Jelsa, Stari Grad, and all that is in between we recommend carving out a whole day for the adventure.

Dubrovnik

In this day and age of travel, I don’t think Dubrovnik needs an introduction. Young and old come from near and far to visit the tip of Croatia. Dubrovnik is Croatia’s crown jewel and is nicknamed the “Pearl of the Adriatic.” Personally, Dubrovnik is a bit overrated and has been sipping too much Game of Thrones kool-aid, but that’s for another time.

Things to do in Dubrovnik

• Old town:It’s true, the walled city is beautiful, clean, and transports you back in time. Here you can walk on the old city walls between 08:00 and 17:30 for 100 HRK. Despite the high cost, if you came all the way to Dubrovnik then walking these walls for an hour or more is well worth the money.  Inside the old town, you can also visit Roland’s Column, the Bell Tower, and many other historic sites; however, the best thing to do is stroll around and enjoy the atmosphere. Beware as the tourist rise in the summer months, so do the prices. Do shopping outside the walls for the best bargains on virtually anything.
• Banje Beach: Grab your flip flops and new bikini and hit up Banje Beach. In the summer season, a chair and umbrella will cost you, but lying on the pebbles is free! As with most of the beaches in Croatia the water here is a stunning mix of turquoise and baby blue. Enjoy!
• Game of Thrones Tour: I feel like I am obligated to include this since Cameron is such a die hard fan. This walking tour takes you through film sets and real life attractions featured on the hit HBO series.

Helpful Croatia Travel Tips

• Croatia has an extensive bus network that can get you almost anywhere in the country. Check BusCroatia for up to date times. We found that renting a car gave us the most flexibility and actually worked out cheaper for people traveling in pairs. We always book our cars through Auto Europe and generally try to go with SiXT when available.
• We met a lot of travelers who only packed summer clothes and were surprised to find out that Croatia can actually get quite chilly! Temperatures in Zagreb can drop to 0°C and can get as low as 5°C in Dubrovnik. Do your research before you go and know the temperatures. Here is what I packed for Europe. 
• The Croatians do not refer to Croatia as Croatia. Once in the country, you will quickly discover that they call their homeland Hrvatska.
• Although Croatia is in Southeastern Europe and is outside the Eurozone, it is still not that cheap. We would put it on par with Slovenia and Greece. We’ve been told that this was done in preparation to join the Euro, but we’re not financial experts. The Kuna is the national currency, although Euros are widely accepted.
• You may have heard of Croatia from the brutal Yugoslav wars back in the ’90s. Although, there are landmines still abundant in non-visited and marked areas, the country is not dangerous. I repeat, the country and the rest of the Balkans is not dangerous. It pains me that people still question safety in this area of Europe, I mean the locals might be in danger of lung cancer, but tourists in danger? No, unless you count secondhand smoke.
• The Dalmation Dog actually is traced back to the Dalmatia region. Unfortunately, we never saw one in the area.

It is a posh island getaway that serves up a laid-back Mediterranean vibe rich with heritage and history suitable for anyone wondering where to go in Croatia. The welcoming atmosphere on the sun-drenched island of Hvar is renowned, making it a well-known destination, yet it seems poised to grow even more significant.

As celebrities like Beyonce, Prince Harry, Brad Pitt, and Tom Cruise continue to make waves visiting on private yachts. Visitors are provided a chance to hike along ancient goat paths to abandoned villages, sunbath au naturale in beautiful turquoise coves, race along dirt roads, dine on abundant Adriatic seafood, and party late into the next morning.

Hvar Town is unique in that it is for all–One can find yachts and sailboats lined up in the harbor while full-service resorts, hotels, hostels, and affordable apartments accommodate anyone.

The Ultimate Hvar Island Travel Guide

Hvar town caters to all interests; We came to Hvar in search of some adventure and relaxation. This is precisely what we found.

Where is Hvar located?

Before we dig into this post, you may be wondering where Hvar is located. Hvar is located off the Dalmatian Coast and is relatively large at 68 km long. It lies between the other Croatian islands of Brač, Vis and Korčula. If you’re coming from the mainland, you’ll have to get to either Split or Drvenik and then catch the ferry. If traveling by plane the best places to fly into are Split, Dubrovnik and Brac.

We arrived in Hvar town in mid-April. In true Hvar fashion, we were greeted with a bright, sunny day. It is one of the sunniest points in Europe and has pleasant weather almost year round. Our first afternoon in Hvar was spent getting acquainted with the town. It’s often the first thing we do when we arrive in a city. When viewing the old town Hvar the city remains visually the same as it did centuries earlier, roofs are red tiled, alleys are smooth marble. And porticos sit high above narrow lanes.

Most alleys lead back into St. Stephens Square. Which, after six centuries of existence St. Stephens square remains the central point of Hvar, even in the off-season when locals congregate in the cafes lining the square. The harbor itself was quiet during April, aside from a few sailboats, it was empty in comparison to the summer months when yachts compete for space. April is the calm before the storm, yet locals remain relaxed in preparation for the thousands of visitors that will swell into the small town.

The city remains visually the same as it did centuries earlier, roofs are red tiled, alleys are smooth marble. And porticos sit high above narrow lanes. Most alleys lead back into St. Stephens Square. Which, after six centuries of existence St. Stephens square remains the central point of Hvar, even in the off-season when locals congregate in the cafes lining the square. The harbor itself was quiet during April, aside from a few sailboats, it was empty in comparison to the summer months when yachts compete for space. April is the calm before the storm, yet locals remain relaxed in preparation for the thousands of visitors that will swell into the small town.

Things to do on Hvar Island

Hvar is filled with plenty to do and many places to do absolutely nothing. In one day you can go from floating in a turquoise bay to off-roading along cliffside roads, and finish by dining on world-class seafood. There is no shortage of things to do on Hvar.

Head to the Pakleni Islands

Looking for the best place to stay in Hvar for nightlife? Head to the islands! The Pakleni Islands that is, which act as a natural barrier to the harbor of Hvar town. The 21 lush islands serve as a refuge for yachts and a must for any trip to Hvar. The island chain consists of numerous bays of crystal clear water, stone beaches, and quiet lagoons.

The largest of the island in the summer hosts a slew of yachts and features a party that extends well into the next morning. This is one of the best summer party places in Europe! However, in April the islands remain quiet asides from the occasional construction project as proprietors gear up for the busy season.

There are several ways to explore the islands. Water taxis run back and forth all day and night from Hvar to the Pakleni islands. The taxis leave from in front of the Arsenal and take visitors to islands of Jerolim and Stipanska, which are considered some of the best nudist beaches in the world (although not officially condoned, yet). The taxis continue to Ždrilca and Mlini, and the last stop is Palmižana. Palmižana features several restaurants, guesthouses, and yacht harbor. It is the busiest of the islands and a must for those looking for something more than a beach.

Rent your boat to explore the Pakleni Islands.

If it’s in the budget or you can gather a group and rent a small boat and take a short boat ride around. Enabling you to explore any bay, lagoon, island, or restaurant you see fit. This means you can start your day off with some all natural bathing on the islands, followed by cliff diving, snorkeling, and a meal at a restaurant on Palmižana.

Water taxis can get you to just about any of the Hvar points of interest. We found Mlini to be one of the most beautiful beaches on the islands and highly recommend.

Hike on Hvar Island

Hvar Island is a Mediterranean jewel with natural beauty that is hard to rival. Old roads form a network of trails throughout the Hvar region, and they are slowly being reclaimed after being forgotten. These ancient roads extend back to the days when Greeks lived on the island a millennia ago. Unlike many of the islands in the region, Hvar is lush and filled with vegetation and exciting hiking trails.

There are several highlights on the island that can be reached by simply walking out of town or taking a vehicle off-road, both of which we highly recommend. We set out for the small coastal town of Milna only a few kilometers from Hvar. It’s a small town with a few taverns for dining or having a cold Nescafe. If you’re looking for a more relaxing base, you can find some great apartment rentals there. After a short hike out of town, old paths that used to connect the cities of Hvar head into the center of the island.

From Milna, you can venture inland towards the abandoned village of Velo Grablje. Our hike up to Velo Grablje involved strolling through the old valley and on to ancient paths that once connected Hvar to the town of Stari Grad on the opposite side of the island. The hiking paths of Hvar go through olive groves, lavender fields, vineyards, up over peaks, and along quiet bays. The tourism board of Hvar island offers a great hiking and cycling map you can pick up at their office located in Saint Stephens square.

The abandoned village of Velo Grablje was eerie and made for a nice stopping point to explore on our journey inland. The town was abandoned almost a hundred years prior due to a decimation of crops.

Dine in Velo Grablje

The village of Velo Grablje may have no inhabitants, but it does have one restaurant. The restaurant, Stori Komin, references to the classic hearth used to prepare meals for centuries. Our meal consisted of regional products starting with local wine, prosciutto, cheese, and vegetables. Wine aficionados cover your eyes, but the meals are often complimented with bevanda, a regional beverage of wine and water mixed, which is refreshing after a long hike on a hot day.

Climb St. Nikola

The highest point on the island is St. Nikola, which refers to the peak and the tiny church that sits atop it. Anyone seeking an excellent adventure or hike will be sure to find plenty of enjoyment hiking up to the summit where they will be rewarded with views of Hvar, the Dalmatian Coast, and surrounding islands. After working up a sweat climbing to the peak, we suggest climbing back down to Sveta Nedjelja to see the hidden cave church.

Below the church is the renowned vineyards of Hvar that lie on the steep coastline facing South to take full advantage of the 2,720 plus hours of sunlight Hvar receives a year. Continue down into town to have a wine tasting at Zlatan Otok, and cool down in the waters below.

Go on a Jeep Safari

For those who wish to explore the islands off-road tracks, a 4×4 safari can be an excellent option. The off-road truck gives you the ability to dive deeper into the island to interesting points seldom known.  It’s great for those who don’t feel like trekking through the heat or are looking for something more exciting.  Secret Hvar provides guided tours through the history of the island as you ride through off-road tracks exploring the local flora and fauna.

A favorite of ours was the history of lavender on the island. We found the web of stone walls that blanket much of the island to be fascinating. We were also able to properly learn about the history of the production of the fragrant flower that can still be found in large fields throughout the island. Hvar was once the largest producer of the fragrant flower, and again, produces some of the finest in the world with its ideal climate. However, production of the famous Hvar product has now become a local affair grown primarily in smaller batches for residents and tourists visiting the region.

Try an ATV tour

Exploring the island on your own accord definitely, makes for a fun-filled adventure. We got our quad from IZI Rent, and it enabled us to explore the whole island of Hvar. We spent the day riding down the southern coast up over the ridge and on to Jelsa. IZI Rent had an excellent selection of cars, quads, buggies, and scooters to choose from. We decided to go with a 500 cc quad to give us a little extra power climbing the hills.

Take a Dip!

You don’t have to leave the main island to find beautiful bays, coves, and beaches. With proper transportation, you can find many splendid swimming holes throughout the island. The best way we found beaches was to explore. We had a great afternoon as we rode along the southern road high above beautiful bays pulling off towards the smaller towns to explore the surrounding coves. Our favorite would be Dubovica just a short drive out of Hvar town, be prepared for a 10-minute hike down to the beach.

Rock Climbing in Hvar with & Adventure

We jump started our weekend with rock-climbing in Hvar. Located just a 15-minute walk from Hvar Town center is the perfect base to position ourselves for a day of climbing fun.  I haven’t “rock-climbed” since summer camp in my teens when a wall and pegs were the substitutes for mountains. Cameron had never been climbing in his life, so these daunting rocks that awaited was essentially a first for both of us.

I say daunting, but the climb was very suitable for beginners like us. Our guide, Kristian, went over the proper safety requirements and showed us how to belay and tie the correct knots.Kristian has clearly been climbing for a number of years and is one of the top guides on the island – making us feel completely safe and comfortable. After he climbed the first rock to set up the ropes, it was our turn.

The first climb up was difficult at first, but we quickly got used to climbing outdoors and couldn’t wait to keep going. The best part about rock climbing in Hvar is the view of the picturesque town of the clear Adriatic behind it. Both Cameron and I reached the top of the first climb and just sat in our harness breathing in the fresh, unpolluted air of the island.

We continued to ascend on two other different rocks, gradually moving up in difficulty. When we got stuck,Kristian was screaming from the bottom “left hand up” and “push with your right foot.” After much determination, we summited one of the harder peaks, and the feeling of completion for beginners like us was extremely rewarding.

As I mentioned, it was our first time rock climbing outdoors which is completely different from indoor climbing. When you are outdoors in nature you have to make your own path. One wrong move can result in a head injury (always wear a helmet) and the wind and weather can make the experience more difficult. Not to mention, climbing with nature can be exhilarating but also slightly scary. Cameron is afraid of heights so climbing in Hvar gave him the perfect opportunity to step out of his comfort zone. After an exciting day and hard work out, we determined we love rock-climbing, and I particularly can’t wait to go again! I’m thinking a new goal will be to rock climb on every continent!

Gear used for Rock Climbing:

• Helmet
• Rock Climbing shoes
• Harness
• Karabiners
• Ropes

What to Bring for Rock Climbing:

• Warm clothes and mobile pants (It gets windy!)
• Walking Shoes
• Camera (We recommend using a GoPro for adventures like these)
• Sunglasses and Sunscreen
• Water[/columnize]

Rock Climbing Costs in Hvar

The price starts at €57, which we found to be completely affordable for those looking for adventure. Head on over to the & Adventure website and contact them to book your excursion!

Cliff Dive

During April, it was too cold for us to get much enjoyment out of this one. However, we are told there are several spots where the locals and a few brave tourists alike go for a quick drive down into deeper waters. One of the best points for cliff diving in Hvar is just outside of Hvar town itself. With a cliff that drops straight down into deeper water, it is safe to jump from several points ranging from a few meters to 25. Check out the photo below to find the location. Or if you get lost ask any local and they will happily point you in the right direction.

Snorkel and Dive

The tranquil bays are rich in marine life that surrounds Hvar make for an enjoyable place to snorkel. You can see locals slipping into the water themselves as they go spearfishing for grouper and other varying types of fish. For those who have a passion for diving, you can contact one of the local dive centers to check out an ancient Greek shipwreck. The seabed, now protected, is littered with amphoras. Combine this with the crystal clear Adriatic seawater for an exciting and unique dive.

Sea Kayaking in Split

The fun wasn’t over in Hvar. Oh no, we were just getting started with our adventurous holiday in Croatia.  We hopped on the last ferry out of Hvar and made our way to Split. We wanted to wake up in the city to go kayaking with Kristian in the morning.  We woke up bright and early and found that the Croatian weather in April does not disappoint. The sun was shining, and for the first time in months, I had to put on sunscreen to protect myself from the sun’s rays.

Sea kayaking in Croatia is named as one of the 17 unmissable experiences. So naturally we were beaming with excitement when Kristian picked us up and we made our way to the bay.  We each picked out our own kayak, put on our life vests, and I prepared the rudder for a day out at sea.

The water started off calm as we each paddled our way in the crystal clear ocean. I was usually behind Cameron and Kristian, but I didn’t mind! The wind was starting to pick up and paddling was gradually getting tougher. We were in store for another workout after being already a tad bit sour from climbing the day before.

After about an hour of battling the waves, we paddled into a quaint little beach near Prva Voda Plaza. We sat with our snacks and basked in the sun while watching the waves pick up. We waited patiently for the sea to calm, but unfortunately, it didn’t. The wind had picked up too much throughout the morning and Kristian informed us that it would not be advisable to start kayaking again. The heavy wind and waves would make it easy for water to fill our kayaks and could result in us flipping. Now I’ve never flipped over in a kayak and unless it is 100 °F out, I’m not quite sure I want to.

Although we were a bit bummed that we were not able to continue kayaking, Mother Nature had determined that it was time to stop. I look forward to kayaking again next time we are in Split and around Croatia because they are surrounded by some of the clearest water in the world.

Sea Kayaking Costs in Split

The prices for kayaking vary depending on the trip. Head on over to the & Adventure website and contact them to book your excursion!

Where to Stay in Hvar Island

Sunčani Hvar

When looking for the best place to stay in Hvar Island, it is impossible to miss the Sunčani Hvar hotel group. They offer a wide range of hotels and are the largest provider of full-service accommodation on the island. The two most significant properties on the island are the Adriana and the Amfora. During our stay in Hvar, we stayed at the Hotel Adriana located right along the harbor. This is one of the more beautiful places to stay on the island and provides a plethora of romantic things to do in Hvar.

Upon our arrival, we were greeted with Prosecco and warm towels before being whisked away to our rooms. Our room was large and featured a comfortable sitting room. Our service did not stop there as we were greeted with fresh flowers, macaroons, and a welcome letter. Looking for the best area to stay in Hvar, Croatia as well? The hotel offers some of the best views of the harbor, and this was no exception for our room.

You can wake up with your bedroom windows open to the harbor winds. Breakfast is the best spread of healthy food options I have ever seen, featuring items such as a milk bar, fresh dragonfruit juice, homemade kefir, loose leaf teas, oils, fresh fruits, chia seeds, charcuterie, and plenty of roasted veggies. We paired breakfast with a glass of Rose and watched the day begin in the harbor.

In the afternoon, it is great to head for the fresh saltwater pool. April provided the perfect temperature with cold water and air that was warm enough to keep comfortable. We spent an afternoon swimming in the pool and lounging around their rooftop cabana. The rooftop is replete with numerous lounges perfect for relaxing and enjoying the sun or shade.

Which, if you come for nothing else you should head to the Adriana for its chic rooftop bar overlooking the harbor. We have Croatian friends that travel to Hvar Island solely for this view! The rooftop has a beautiful selection of drinks and a selection of food to choose from should you get hungry. We always love an afternoon snack after swimming in the pool and lounging in the sun.

Our room had everything we could need, including a humongous closet, full sized bed, waterfall shower, and even a two-person whirlpool bathtub. We had no trouble relaxing and enjoying our time while staying in the Hotel Adriana.

Or Try Airbnb

For those of you who prefer to self-cater instead of staying at a Hvar Island hotel, there are also plenty of apartments you can rent on the island. All around the island during busy season locals rent out their studios to visitors. We always use Airbnb to find a home away from home, and you can use our link here for $20 off your first booking.

Where to Eat on the Island of Hvar

Seated right in the Adriatic sea, there is no shortage of abundant seafood to be had while staying in Hvar. The sea itself is famed for its high salinity producing a bountiful selection of fish for dining that is delicious with minimal seasoning. We were told that you have to boil the fish for a delicious meal. Given the wealthy clientele that visits the island, a history of artisanal products, and an island rich in flora, it should be no surprise that you will not go hungry while in Hvar.

Gariful

If there is a place to dine with celebrities, Gariful is likely the spot. We had a fantastic meal of local fresh Adriatic seafood paired with a beautiful Hvar wine. Our meal consisted of fresh octopus, prawns, sardines, sea bass, calamari, and mussels. For anyone who loves seafood, it was indeed a spectacular meal. Their impressive wine list will be sure to please any wine connoisseur.  We found Gariful to deliver some of the best services in all of Croatia, boasting genuine island hospitality.

Mizarola

For a more budget option, there is Mizarola. Serving up pizza, fish, risottos, and an excellent selection of items to keep just about everyone happy. You’ll find locals hanging out here enjoying a beer or cafe watching the buzzing piazza it sits.

Stori Komin

As mentioned before this restaurant is located in an abandoned town. Here you will find “no menu, no Coca-cola, and no french fries” It is merely local and traditional Hvar food. Such as wonderful lamb and potatoes cooked over coals.

Where to Drink Wine on Hvar

Hvar is an island with Greek, Roman, Balkan, and Croatian influences. This translates into tons of wine consumption. The productive natural environment of the famous south-facing slopes of Hvar produces grapes high in sugar with all the sunlight that washes over them. Hvar is wine country, and it is hard to go anywhere on the island and not find a vineyard hiding somewhere. They range from family-sized to larger producers, some even garnering international attention. We particularly enjoyed the wines from Andro Tomic and Zlatan Otok.

Great Vineyards on Hvar Island

Zlatan Otok

The wines from Zlatan Otok are said to be some of the finest in the region and Hvar. The winery has an underwater tasting room located in Sveta Nedjelja, giving visitors an extraordinary experience. However, we’re sorry to say that Zlatan himself passed away shortly before our arrival on the island and we were unable to visit the winery. We do hope that his family continues to produce more great wines for the island of Hvar.

Andro Tomic

Our favorite wine we’ve had from the Balkan region came from Andro Tomic. We had his 2015 Beleca and found it to be a fantastic compliment to our meal at Gariful. It’s most similar in taste to some Savougaun Blancs we’ve had in the past light, crisp and florally.

The History of Hvar Island

Hvar town itself has a timeless air to it. The building facades of the city center remain relatively unchanged after centuries. The city owes its character to the Venetians who took control of the island in 1278. They set about building a massive stone fort atop the hill overlooking the island for its strategic placement.

Hvar Fortress

The current fortress dated back to 1551 when and was expanded to protect the citizens of Hvar during the Turkish invasion in 1571. However, due to an explosion of gunpowder in 1579 much of the fort was severely damaged and was repaired decades later in the early 17th century. The city walls and the fortress that sits above Hvar town are still very much present today.

Benedictine Convent

The Benedictine Convent moved into Hvar town in 1664 and held a beautiful collection of arts. The fame of the convent comes from the lace they produce from agave threads. The art of lace making dates back to the 18th century and is on the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The small lace patterns are available for purchase and make an extraordinary gift.

Historic Theatre

The theater, attached to the Arsenal, was the first public theater in Europe. Founded in 1612 the theater was open to all after a brief rebellion over the dissatisfaction of the class system in Hvar. The interior of the theater dated to 1803 when the theater society was founded.

Summerhouse of the Poet Hanibal Lucić

This prized piece of architecture sat just outside the old town of Hvar and was once on the road linking Stari Grad and Hvar. It is a classic example of a suburban home with two houses and a central garden. The estate served as both a residence and place of business of the famous Poet Hanibal Lucić.

St. Mary of Grace

The church of St. Mary of Grace is a single nave gothic church built in the 15th century.  It features several Renaissance pieces of artwork and is the resting place of the local poet Lucić.

What’s Hvar Island Nightlife Like?

The hedonistic like atmosphere surrounding Hvar is certainly one that deserves its infamy. During the summer months, the town of Hvar and the Pakleni islands see both Yacht Week and Ultra Europe as massive draws. Spending a night out in the clubs is one of the best things to do in Hvar. While the beach bars produce parties almost every night throughout the summer. Some of the best clubs on Hvar island are:

Hula Hula

If you’re looking for some day drinking and aprés-beach relaxing then Hula Hula is the place for you. Situated just west of Hvar Town you can walk out of the city center along the coast to the humming beach bar. It’s frequented by just about everyone and was even visited by Beyonce and Jay-Z for those who are fans of pop-culture.

Carpe Diem

This is probably the most famous club in the region, and if you’ve already been planning on visiting Hvar island, you’ve likely stumbled across it a few times. Beach revelers should head to Stipanska Island on the Pakleni Islands. Carpe Diem more or less operates 24 hours a day serving up drinks to sunbathers during the day and music to a large crowd late into the next morning.

Central Park Club

Located in central Hvar, this bar features live music every night in the high season and has one of the best atmospheres on the island. Much like the island of Hvar, this bar is for everyone or anyone looking to hear some live music and have a drink.

How to Get to Hvar Island

There are two main ways on the island – fly or take one of the many boat options.

By Sea

Ferry

The primary way to get to Hvar island is from Split. Jadrolinija is the leading ferry provider in Croatia. They have two different schedules – one for the high season and another for the low season. You can find more info on Jadrolinija here. All of the larger ferries arrive in Stari Grad which then requires a bus ride to Hvar Town, bus times usually coincide with ferry arrival times. International ferries from Ancona are also possible via Jadrolinija.

Catamaran

The fastest and most convenient way to travel via public transport are the catamarans. Their smaller size also allows them to arrive directly in the town of Hvar. More info about locations that they operate from can be found here.

Yacht

If you’re arriving by yacht you probably already know what you’re doing or have a crew who does. However, Hvar Town and the surrounding marinas in the summertime swell with boats and sailboats from around the world.

Flights to Hvar Island

Seaplane

It is possible to arrive via Seaplane, and for quite an affordable price. We considered flying in just for the novelty and sheer convenience of coming via Seaplane.